Dress Codes Explained: What to Wear to Black Tie, Cocktail, Lounge Suit and Smart Casual Events
Black tie, cocktail, lounge suit, smart casual, "dress to impress"... Invitations can feel like they're written in code. Here's my simple guide to what each dress code really means, and what I'd wear to every one of them.
The quick guide
What do dress codes actually mean?
A dress code is simply the host's way of telling you how formal the day will be. Get it right and you can relax and enjoy yourself. Here they are from most formal to most relaxed:
- White tie: the most formal of all. Floor-length gowns only.
- Black tie: evening glamour. A full-length gown, or an elegant midi or jumpsuit in a luxurious fabric.
- Black tie optional: a long or midi dress, dressy and polished.
- Cocktail: a beautiful knee, midi or ballerina-length dress. Party, but not ballgown.
- Formal daytime: weddings, the races, garden parties. Structured dresses, good fabric, often a hat.
- Lounge suit: smart and elegant. A beautifully cut knee or midi dress, or a smart jumpsuit.
- Smart casual: polished and comfortable. A great dress you could also wear to lunch.
Evening glamour
What should I wear to a black tie event?
Black tie is your chance to really dress up. For women it traditionally means a floor-length gown, but a beautifully cut midi or a glamorous jumpsuit in a luxurious fabric is perfectly correct today.
Think sequins, velvet, silk and satin. Choose something with a little sleeve if you like your arms covered, and a defined waist so you look elegant from every angle, including when you're sitting at dinner.
My Soft Silver Sequin Swing Gown is made for black tie, and the Aqua Sequin Swing Dress has a wrap bodice and a swing skirt that moves beautifully when you dance. If dresses aren't you, the Dietrich palazzo jumpsuit is a feminine take on a tuxedo and looks wonderful with statement earrings.
★★★★★
“Can't wait to wear this gorgeous dress at my son's black tie wedding in August. It is so glamorous and so comfy.”
Karen S.
Aqua Sequin Swing Dress
Party ready
What does cocktail attire mean for women?
Cocktail is the dress code I'm asked about most. It means dressy and festive, but not a full-length gown. A knee, midi or ballerina-length dress is perfect.
This is where colour, texture and a little sparkle come in. A rich satin like my Grace in Plum, a velvet such as the Claridges in Navy, or a sequin midi like Coco are all ideal. Add heels you can stand in for a couple of hours, and a clutch.
★★★★★
“I wore it for a family wedding and it looked as good at the end of the night after all the dancing as it did at the beginning of the day. The fabric is a lovely weight and falls beautifully, swings out during the dancing and was wrinkle free at the end of the night.”
Dairiona L.
Grace Plum Stretch Satin Dress
Weddings, races and garden parties
What should I wear for formal daytime?
Most weddings, christenings, Royal Ascot and garden parties fall into this category. You want something structured and elegant in a quality fabric, usually midi or ballerina length, often with a hat or headpiece.
Silk dupion and jacquard are perfect because they hold their shape all day. My Suzannah in Pink Artist print and the Grace in Pacific Blue silk both look beautiful in photographs and don't need a jacket over the top.
★★★★★
“This dress has the Wow factor and just exudes elegance! Beautiful heavy weight lined fabric; no need to hide it under a jacket. Perfect for mother of the bride (try not to outshine the bride!)”
Helen C.
Suzannah in Pink Artist Print
Smart and elegant
What does lounge suit mean for women?
You'll often see "lounge suit" on wedding invitations, christenings and smart lunches. For men it means a suit and tie rather than black tie. For women, it means smart, elegant daywear: a step below black tie, but a step above smart casual.
Think of a beautifully cut knee, midi or ballerina-length dress in a quality fabric, a tailored shirt dress, or a smart jumpsuit. You can add a jacket, a pretty coat or a hat or headpiece if it's a wedding. Save the floor-length gowns and heavy sequins for black tie, and leave the jeans at home.
My Grace dress is perfect for a lounge suit dress code: tailored, flattering and smart enough for a wedding, with a defined waist and a lovely sleeve. The Dietrich jumpsuit is an elegant alternative if you prefer trousers.
★★★★★
“I wore this dress to my daughter's wedding and felt amazing in it. Got lots of compliments but above all I felt really comfortable. The cut of this dress is outstanding.”
Sandra H.
Grace in Electric Blue
Relaxed but polished
What does smart casual mean?
Smart casual is the one that catches people out. It doesn't mean jeans. It means polished and put together, but comfortable: the kind of outfit you'd wear to a nice lunch, a birthday meal or a relaxed family celebration.
A beautifully cut shirt dress is the perfect answer. My Zip Pocket Dress has deep pockets, an adjustable zip neckline and a waist-defining sash, and the ballerina-length Always Zip Pocket in Helena Rose is lovely for a summer party.
Decoding the invitation
What about "festive", "dress to impress" or "evening reception"?
- Festive: cocktail with a twist. Go for colour, velvet, a print or a little sparkle.
- Dress to impress: treat it as cocktail and wear the dress that makes you feel fabulous.
- Evening reception only: dressier than the daytime. Midi or long, and something you can dance in.
- No dress code at all: for a wedding, assume formal daytime. You'll never feel out of place.
A glamorous jumpsuit is a wonderful choice for an evening reception, especially if you love to dance. The Hampstead velvet jumpsuit is one of my bestsellers for exactly that reason.
★★★★★
“I ordered the navy jumpsuit to wear for the evening reception of my son's wedding and it's perfect! Gorgeous fabric and so comfortable, it will be perfect for dancing.”
Kirsty B.
Hampstead Velvet Jumpsuit in Navy
My golden rules
How do I choose when I'm still not sure?
- If in doubt, go slightly dressier. It's always better than feeling underdressed.
- Fabric does a lot of the work. The same shape in silk, velvet or sequins instantly becomes more formal.
- Choose comfort you can keep up all day: a sleeve you like, a waist that's defined but not tight, shoes you can stand in.
- Above all, wear something that makes you feel like you.
Still not sure what to wear?
Come and try on dresses with me in my London showroom. Tell me the occasion and the dress code, and I'll help you find the perfect outfit.
Book a visitShop eventwearLove, Katya x
Katya Wildman is a London fashion designer and former costume designer and stylist for television and the red carpet. For more than 20 years she has designed flattering occasion dresses for real women, made in London, and she welcomes customers to her showroom in Tottenham Hale to try on dresses in person.
