The Best Dresses for a Fuller Bust: A Designer's Guide

I wear a 30H bra myself, so believe me when I say I understand the frustration of dresses that gape, pull or simply don't work for a fuller bust. It's one of the reasons I started designing. Here's everything I've learned about choosing dresses that celebrate your bust rather than fight it.

Why is it so hard to find dresses for a big bust?

Most high street dresses are cut for a B or C cup. If you're fuller in the bust, you often have to size up to fit your chest, and then the dress is too big everywhere else: baggy at the waist, loose on the shoulders and shapeless overall. Buttons strain and gape, wrap dresses fall open, and high necklines create a "shelf" effect.

The answer isn't to hide your bust under something shapeless. It's to choose dresses designed with your shape in mind.

What neckline is most flattering for a fuller bust?

A V-neck or wrap neckline is almost always the most flattering. It breaks up the expanse of the chest, draws the eye up towards your face and elongates the neck and upper body.

Necklines to approach with caution are high round necks, polo necks and wide boat necks, which can make the bust look larger and the body look shorter.

Are shirt dresses good for a big bust?

They can be the best dress of all, as long as they're designed properly. The problem with most shirt dresses is gaping between the buttons. In my shirt dresses, like Suzannah and Signature, I use a concealed placket, a hidden strip of fabric behind the buttons, so there's no gaping at all, however you move.

The Grace dress uses carefully placed darts and seams to lift and shape the bust, much like old-fashioned couture tailoring.

Is a zip-front dress good for a fuller bust?

Yes, a zip front is brilliant. A zip can't gape like buttons, and you can choose exactly how high or low you want your neckline. That's the secret behind my bestselling Zip Pocket Dress. The bodice is scooped just under the bust to lift and define, and the adjustable zip means it works for a wide range of cup sizes.

The new Straight Zip Pocket has a sharp V that cuts through a big bust like magic, with seams placed to slim and streamline.

What about wrap dresses?

A true wrap can be tricky because it tends to slip open. A faux wrap gives you all the flattering V-neck of a wrap without the worry. My Confident dress has a faux wrap bodice with shirred side panels that sculpt and lift the bust, a technique inspired by 1940s designer Alfred Shaheen.

How do I define my waist if I have a big bust?

Defining your waist is the single most flattering thing you can do with a fuller bust. Without it, fabric falls straight down from the fullest point of your chest and makes you look bigger than you are. Look for:

• A sash or tie belt, like on the Zip Pocket, Sasha and Suzannah.
• Seaming that sits under the bust, to create shape.
• A skirt that flares or drapes from the waist, to balance the bust with the hips.

What sleeve length is best?

A 3/4 sleeve or an elbow-length sleeve is lovely, because it ends at the narrowest part of your arm and balances your proportions. Very puffy or gathered sleeves at the shoulder can add width to the top half, so I tend to keep shoulders clean.

Can I wear a strapless or off-the-shoulder dress with a big bust?

You can, but you'll need excellent support, and many women find them uncomfortable over a long day. My Confident Swing and Claridges dresses sit on the edge of the shoulder, which gives you that beautiful décolletage while still letting you wear a bra with proper straps. In my photos I'm wearing a 30H bra with a full strap, simply moved to the side.

Which fabrics are best?

Fabrics with a bit of weight and a little stretch skim the body without clinging. Ponte Roma jersey, stretch cotton, stretch velvet and stretch satin are all excellent. Very thin, clingy jersey and stiff fabrics with no give are harder to wear.

Does the right bra make a difference?

A huge difference. A well-fitted bra lifts the bust, which defines your waist and makes every dress hang better. If you haven't been measured in the last year, it's worth doing before an important occasion.

Come and try on dresses with me

If you'd like help finding dresses that really work for your shape, book an appointment in my London showroom. I promise you'll leave feeling good about your bust.

Love, Katya x